Friday, 29 June 2018

Chupi Char

About 120 Kms from Howrah is a village called Purbasthali. On the Howrah-Katwa line, there is Nabadwip, then Bishnupriya and then comes Purbasthali. It takes about 3 hours, including delay, from Howrah. A portion of the meandering Ganga got cut off here and formed a huge oxbow lake. This place has become a haven for birds-migratory and resident-alike. You get down at Purbasthali station and take a Toto for 20 Rupees per head and ask him to take you to Kashashali Picnic Spot (15 minutes). The local administration has done a rather good job with the place. There is a website with all the particulars and you have to book ahead if you are staying overnight. Staying overnight is recommended. That way you can get both the late afternoon and early morning views.There are four little cottages in a lovely garden, just next to the lake. The 10 am train from Howrah reaches Purbasthali at around 1 pm and it takes another 15 minutes ride in a Toto to reach the spot. Have lunch, take a little rest and then hire a boat. there are boats galore, charging 150 rupees per hour. It is a lovely lovely view from the boat. There's this never ending expanse of clear water- clear enough so that you can see the green weeds and plants beneath, and flocks of birds all around. November to February is the time for migratory birds, especially the Red Pochard. There are the egrets-great and little, and herons-purple and pond, the bronze winged jacana, pheasant tailed jacana, kingfishers-white breasted, common and pied, the ducks- red crested ochard and cotton pygmy goose, long tailed shrike, drongo, stork, purple swamphen, black headed Ibis,little cormorants, red wattled lapwing, sand plover, citrine wagtail, greater coucal, grebes, coots and hordes of barn swallows. They fly all around you at such terrific speed that you get frustrated at being unable to capture them on camera. By the time you are through with two and a half to three hours boat ride, the light falls and you have to return. We did spot an overenthusiastic group though, with a guy using flash to shoot birds in the failing light . Coming back to the cottages, there's tea and hot pakoras waiting. There's nothing much to do in the evening, except have an early dinner and fall asleep quickly to wake up early the next morning. Between 6:30 and 7, hire a boat again and set off down the lake. This is the best time for bird watching. The birds are still sleepy and you can spot them resting. The downside of sitting cross legged on the boat planks for hours on end is that your leg might start paining. Remove a couple of planks and put your feet down into the hold of the boat if you want to avoid cramps later. Since Nabadwip is so close, there's the 24 hour Naam-sankirtan going on- Hare Krishna- in a loop. You fall into the rhythm and start chanting unawares, though you keep wishing that they employed people with better vocals, if they are at it all day and night. The checkout time officially being 11 am, we were forced to return back before reaching the island here. Still we had clocked in 4 hours of boating. A late breakfast awaits you at the cottage. Then take a tour of the mustard fields in the countryside if you so wish, for the next train is at 1:30 pm. We took longer and took the 3:19 train. It is important to book a Toto ahead, as there aren't any waiting at the spot. The cottages, newly built, are good. Nothing fancy, just neat and clean and comfortable, with good bathrooms (so important, that it makes all the difference between a good stay and a bad one). The property is well maintained and the locals take a pride in it. Week ends can be extremely difficult to book, so either book ahead or take a couple of days off during the week and come down here. If you are looking for birds to watch or photograph, in a village retreat, with fresh hot home cooked food and a leisurely stroll thrown in, Purbasthali won't disappoint you.
Caretaker: Abhijit 7908061487
Our boatman- Bashir Biswas
website: http://purbasthali.com/




























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